Mccall's Corset & Underbust Patterns
I was hoping to get to this a little bit sooner but work has had me tied up. I was recently contacted by a marketing rep about the new line and I was really excited to learn that the newest additions would be corsets. Hell yes corsets! Isn't that the staple of any gothic wardrobe? The whole bottom drawer of my dresser is corsets! Sadly most of them don't fit me, but with the opportunity to make one of these corsets I can finally replenish and replace all of my old favorites!
I've seen a lot of corset costume patterns emerging in recent years. I guess there's this fad in the cosplay scene where pop culture is hybridized with high fashion, and apparently high fashion is corsets(?). It really doesn't matter to me either way. I always welcome a new corset pattern, in particular if that pattern is well developed and not simply another "fashion" corset. I have so many of those damn fashion corset patterns and they all fit like shit!
Because I don't have the patterns in front of me, I can only offer a cold reading on how I feel about them. I plan on making either garment, possibly for my new spring wardrobe (my upcoming surgery may free up some sewing time) but which one will depend on my needs.
McCall's SHAPESHIFTER (M2032) & LACED (M2034)
Ok, where to start? Both corsets lace up in the back and have busks in the front. In Shapeshifter, underbust B has structural shaping around the hips where A does not. The overbust corset in Laced has three different looks, with slight variations in the necklines. All corsets are lined and have a modesty panel. Does anything set these apart from previous corset patterns? I would say the shape and how the boning channels are handled are definitely new to McCall's, but other than that there's not too much of a difference. This is a step up from previous patterns which appear bulky and unrefined; in particular the "Making History" corsets which look boxy, stiff and ill fitting. What sets these apart from Yaya's corset pattern? Small details, like how the boning is placed and the bust cups.
If you're not into corsets with cups then I'd say the Laced overbust pattern would appeal to you. I'm personally hesitant to try anything with cups because I've had nothing but bad luck with them. I tried a bustier not too long ago and ran into various fit issues because of the bust cup. The Laced overbust will still require bust adjustments but hopefully with far less fuss than with a separate cup piece. I also have some reservations about the Shapeshifter underbust corset A, in regards to how it fits around the hips. I imagine it's not going to work straight out of the envelope as women's hip measurements can vary drastically depending on their body type. I'm curious to know how that kind of adjustment is made in a corset. I look forward to seeing what kind of fitting advice the instruction booklet may have to offer.
Now, to be fair, all patterns have their fit issues and it's in the hands of the sewist to make alterations. However, when a pattern becomes too complicated to make adjustments to it's a big problem. I won't know if that's the case with these corsets until I'm able to test the patterns out thoroughly. Going off of looks alone, I'm impressed with what I see. I like that the overbust has an option for a lace overlay; I've been dying to replace an old corset that has pink satin with a black lace overlay. I like the shape of the underbust, too. They look sexy, they're nicely designed, and unlike other McCall's corsets they're not popping off the body awkwardly at the hem or bustlines.
Tell me what you guys think! Are you still digging corsets or have they gone the way of the dinosaurs?